First up, apologies to those who have been following the blog. I haven’t written in a wee while and I’m sorry! Hopefully this extra long ramble will make up for it…
Och aye! What a perfect wee introduction to the UK. A 4-night stay in Scotland exploring the historic Edinburgh castle, the royal Holyrood Palace, the royal Britannia yacht and Edinburgh’s distinctive old and new town. “Watch ooout Scoootlahnd- Rrrrangs and Shahzzeh Teah are in touun!”
Edinburgh, Scotland: Day One
Endless flat green farmlands was my first glimpse of Scotland. It was grey, misty and wee bit chilly. I was glad I packed my very bright but warm wooly hat.
After touchdown at Edinburgh airport, we took a black taxi (which was a novelty in itself) to the place we were staying, Houstoun Hotel.
The hotel was originally called Houstoun Manor House. It was built in 1551 by a man called Thomas Shairp who was an advocate to Queen Mary of Scots. There is a small cottage next to the main building called Woman House. It is believed that when Mary Queen of Scots rode over from Linlithgow Palace (near Houstoun Manor House), it was here he entertained her. When Queen Mary of Scots was executed, Thomas Shairp locked the door to the room in which she had slept and it was never used again.
My room was in the main part of the house on the second story. It was a corner room which looked out on the gardens and tennis court below. The room had a four poster bed, and a gorgeous dressing table and seat. The walls were thick and in my wardrobe there was even a small hole in the wall where you could poke your rifle if you felt the need for added protection.
We spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing ahead of a busy touristy schedule tomorrow.
Edinburgh, Scotland: Day Two
Houstoun Hotel is located in Uphall, just outside of Edinburgh. We walked 5 mins to catch a train into the capital city of Scotland. Edinburgh has been the Scottish capital since the 15th century. It has two distinct areas: the Old Town, dominated by a medieval fortress (Edinburgh castle); and the neoclassical New Town built around the 18th century. We decided to take the Royal tour of Edinburgh which is mainly based in the Old Town. Our first stop was Holyrood Palace. Our mode transport was an open double decker bus. How dangerous this was. While it was waiting to depart I was almost disposed of by a dodgy family member.
Open air travelling in Spring Scottish air is b-b-brisk. We were all rugged up in scarves, hats and gloves. Eventually we made it up the hill to the Old Town and arrived to our destination of Holyrood Palace.
Founded as a monastery in 1128, the Palace of Holyroodhouse in Edinburgh is The Queen’s official residence in Scotland. Situated at the end of the Royal Mile, the Palace of Holyroodhouse is closely associated with Scotland’s turbulent past, including Mary, Queen of Scots, who lived here between 1561 and 1567. Successive kings and queens have made the Palace of Holyroodhouse the premier royal residence in Scotland. Today, the Palace is the setting for State ceremonies and official entertaining.
Before entering the palace we got equipped with our own personal headphones. The headphones plug into a small black box which if you wore on the street people would think you were listening to some beats your MP3 player, but the box was a personal tour guide. When you move through each room or pass an interesting exhibit there will be a number displayed next to it. You key the number into your black box to hear the commentary about the point of interest. I was stoked to hear Prince Charles introducing the tour through my headphones, I kept looking around me to see if I could see him. I do a quick 180 degree jump turn. No, he’s not there, but after THAT royal introduction, I feel very welcome to Charlie’s Scottish digs. (It’s true when they say posh people talk, it’s like they’ve got a plum in their mouth.)
Inside the palace was amazing. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the palace so I hope my description can do it justice. After entering the main entrance there is an outside grass courtyard where all four walls of the palace look down onto. Next, we were taken up a dramatic stairwell where I felt like a princess gliding up it, I pulled my shoulders back and even pouted. The stairs led to the dining room, which although wasn’t large, it was elegant. Imposing royal portraits adorned the walls. The dining table was poslished to perfection and decorated with silver cutlery and sparkling glassware. It is still used today when the royals host important guests.
Next, it was off to the ballroom. This room seemed quite dark, but I can imagine this provides atmosphere when the royals use this room for important events. At one end, there were two throne-like chairs. Large royal portraits adorned the walls again, reminding of monarchy gone by.
The next major room is the largest and most stunning in the Palace: the Great Gallery. The long room displays 89 of the original 110 Jacob de Wet portraits of the real and legendary kings of Scotland, from Fergus I to Charles II.
Mary, Queen of Scots spent most of her turbulent life in the Palace – a dramatic and often tragic chapter in the history of the building. She married two of her husbands in the Abbey. Her private secretary David Rizzio was murdered in her personal rooms by a group led by her husband Lord Darnley, who believed she was having an affair with Rizzio.
Queen Mary of Scots’ room was perhaps the most eerie. A small stairwell leads to her bedroom. Off the side of her bedroom there is a small room which was allegedly where Rizzio was murdered. The scandal and tragedy element to this room made it very atmospheric. For the final part of the tour, we headed outside to view the Abbey ruins adjacent to the palace.
As if the 14th century wasn’t historic enough for me, the Abbey beats Hollyrood Palace hands down in “Who’s the oldest building?” stakes.
According to legend, David I founded the Palace as an Augustinian monastery in 1128. It is said that the king had a vision in which a cross, or ‘rood’, belonging to his mother St Margaret appeared between the antlers of an attacking stag. Hence the Abbey’s symbol – a stag’s head, with its horns framing a cross.
It was sad to see the monastery in ruins but I’m glad they haven’t tried to rebuild it. The original ruins have a sacred feel and it seems odd the “modern” building next to it (the palace) is only 400 years younger.
Holyrood Palace and Abbey ruins is at the foot of the Royal Mile; which, hence the name, is approximately one mile long and leads up to the Edinburgh castle. Our journey along the Royal Mile was a spiritual 0ne because after visiting the Abbey the next stops were Canongate Kirk and St Giles Cathedral.
“Kirk” you might have guessed or already known, is the Scottish word for church. Within Canongate Kirk graveyard lay a delightful and rewarding find. Anyone who has studied economics or history will know of a man called Adam Smith. Yep, Mr Smith lies in rest at the Canongate Kirk graveyard. He was a Scottish economist and philosopher who wrote a wee book called “The Wealth of Nations”. In this book he examined in detail the consequences of economic freedom. It covered such concepts as the role of self-interest, the division of labor, the function of markets, and the international implications of a laissez-faire economy.
Me being a slightly enthusiastic wannabe economics geek, I took some photos and revelled in being somehow close to a historical figure I learnt about back in wee New Zealand. He had an amazing quote on his tomb and it reads as follows:
THE PROPERTY
WHICH EVERY MAN
HAS IN HIS OWN LABOUR
AS IT IS THE ORIGINAL FOUNDATION
OF ALL OTHER PROPERTY
SO IT IS THE MOST
SACRED AND
INVIOLABLE
Cool eh! Next, we headed to St Giles Cathedral, the historic City Church of Edinburgh. This is, by far the biggest church I’ve been in. I admit I haven’t been inside many churches and even if you’re not religious like I am, you can’t help but admire the history and beauty of this cathedral. It is massive. Within the church, there are tiny chapels portioned off with their own seating. A huge organ kept rising up and up like it was going to heaven. But to me, the most treasured part of the church, was the Thistle Chapel.
In 1911 the Thistle Chapel was completed, to be used by the Knights of the Thistle, Scotland’s order of chivalry. Though small, it is in 15th century high Gothic style and full of elaborate carvings in wood and stone and of colourful heraldry.
The Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle is an order of chivalry associated with Scotland. While its original date of foundation is unknown, James VII (also King of England as James II) instituted the modern Order in 1687. The Order consists of the Sovereign and sixteen Knights and Ladies, as well as certain “extra” knights (members of the Brithish Royal family and foreign monarchs). The Sovereign alone grants membership of the Order; he or she is not advised by the Government, as occurs with most other Orders. The sixteen members are required to be Scottish-born, though not the “extra” knights and ladies.
The Thistle Chapel transported me back to the 17th century and I imagine the King or Queen and the Kinghts and Ladies sitting in their thrones listening to a service. The detail is amazing. The woodwork is very intricate and the flags for each member of the Order were a highlight.
It was time to walk back up the Royal Mile towards the castle. Although we walked past several tourist shops along the Mile, it is easy to imagine what life must have been like back in the day. The Mile still has a cobbled street with little alley ways leading off it. The majority of the buildings along the Mile are still in tact and give an authentic ring to it. When we got to the top of the Mile, we were pooped, so it was time to head back to our hotel and chill out.
And by chill out, I mean Scottish style. You can’t not go to Scotland without trying a taste of whisky. After a delicious meal at the hotel restaurant we headed to the bar. We got talking to the Scottish barman who was a member of the local Whisky society. He recommended a single islay malt whisky, Lagavulin (aged 16 years…of course). When drinking whisky neat he says it’s personal preference if you want to add a touch of water or not. He recommended adding water as it brings out the aroma and taste more. When in Scotland, do as Scots do, I say! I must have been a charming Kiwi as I got to keep the bottle, and no I didn’t finish a whole one.
